CompactFlash (CF) Card for DSLR
Digital Printing/ Photoshop Processing
Tokina 12-24mm vs. Russian MC Zenitar 16mm Fisheye
Art Suppliers & Photo Printing
Photo Seminars and Contest Information
- CompactFlash (CF) Card for DSLR
DSLR CCD/CMOS image gets written out to the camera's storage much slower (anywhere from 120K/sec to at best 2 MB/sec). CompactFlash (or CF) cards vary considerably in their write speeds as well as capacities and robustness in the field. Since high-speed, high-capacity CF cards cost a lot, and you can end up spending a lot of time waiting for your snapshots to get written out to memory, it pays to understand more about this subject. It turns out that the manufacturer's speed ratings (12x, 16x, etc) do not guarantee that your DSLR will write images out that much faster than some other brand, depending on your camera and other variables. Here some CompactFlash cards for your DSLR below:
Digital Photography Review's "Digital Film" comparison
Rob Galbraith's comparison
Steve's DigiCams article
Speed in the field is one factor, then when you back to home, transfer the images to your computer, you have to wait once again. There are several common ways to accomplish this transfer: A cable between computer and camera, a CF card reader, or an intermediate device such as the digital wallet. The following articles examine some of these choices:
Barefeat's comparison of Firewire vs. USB Flash card readers
- Digital Tips and Tricks
http://www.pbase.com/copperhill/ccd_cleaning - Sensor clearing.
- Digital Printing/Photoshop Processing
sRGB vs Adobe RGB: http://www.shootsmarter.com/infocenter/wc025.html
Fine Art Black and White Digital Printing - http://www.cjcom.net/digiprnarts.htm
http://www.thelightsright.com/DigitalDarkroom/LearningGalleries/B&WFineArt/B&WFineArt.htm
RGB Convert to B&W in PS
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1) Add Hue/Sat layer but don't change anything yet.
2) Add Chan/Mix layer and do the usual things with it.
3) Back to Hue/Sat layer: move the Hue slider to get the effect you
want (can give red or yellow filter look, etc).
4) Flatten
5) Convert to grayscale mode
or -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. Layer>New Adjustment Layer>Hue/Saturation
2. Edit Master>Hue>-(minus)180 Saturation>-(minus)100 Lightness>000 OK
3. Image>Mode>Lab Color with Flatten
4. Channel>delete A(the letter A) channel then delete Alpha2 channel
5. Image>Mode>Grayscale
6. Continue with your adjustments with sharpening being the very last step done before saving the final image for printing.
Computer Dar-room - http://www.computer-darkroom.com/
The Monitor calibration and Gamma assessment: http://www.photoscientia.co.uk/Gamma.htm
There are three printers that can give you the b&w digital prints - The Epson 1280, the Epson 1160 and the Epson 2200.
Archival goes to the 2200!!!! Snappy glossy gorgeous prints goes to the 1280. Matt the 2200.
To go along your printer you'll need to choose an inkset. Visit these suppliers:
www.inksupply.com (The Ultra-Tones Inkset)www.inkjetmall.com (The PiezoTones Inkset)
www.atlex.com(least expensive, excellent service!)
www.voltexx.com (lowest price)
Image processor for Photoshop CS. http://www.russellbrown.com/body.html
How to create a stars in the night sky effects with adobe Photoshop
For the paper, start with the Epson Enhanced Matt. It is a paper for B&W and will give you a basis against which to judge the other papers.
Tripod heads, i.e., ball vs. pan-and-tilt is also a religious discussion. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. You will need to try each in the field and see what works for you. The ball head only works well with relatively light cameras. For a heavy MF, a 4x5, or bigger, the ball head is a real problem. A solid pan-and-tilt head will work well with cameras of any weight. (But you have to be careful -- the mounting plate of many heads is not large enough to properly mount larger cameras; you may have to look for a specific head -- check your specific equipment!)
A ball head is quicker - you just loosen it, orient your camera where you want it and retighten the head. A pan head is good if you want to control motion, either horizontal-only or vertical-only - especially good for movies (Bogen 3021 Pro/3047).
If you're not going to be using very heavy telephoto or pro zoom lenses, a ball head like the Manfrotto 486 isn't that expensive, and it's quite adequate.
It is rare to ship a CCD/CMOS sensor shipped which is totally free of hot or dead pixels. The firmware should interpolate dead pixel from neighboring pixels. If you want test the dead pixel, here is the link.
Dead pixel test program: http://www.starzen.com/imaging/deadpixeltest.htm
Image sharpening: http://www.lindev.org/10D-sharpening
Please use these links to choose your lenses. Lens is more important than the camera body.
http://www.cmpsolv.com/photozone/lenssurvey.htm
http://www.geocities.com/jacques_weber_us/
http://www.photodo.com/nav/prodindex.html
http://www.photozone.de/bindex2.html
http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/
Canon 50mm EF lenses http://www.photo.net/equipment/canon/ef50/
CANON EOS LENS FAQ http://www.photozone.de/2Equipment/canonFAQ.htm
Canon Lenses Recommend :http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Lenses
To See the Lenses Samples: http://www.pbase.com/cameras , select the camera, then go to the bottom to see the lenses photo samples
Tokina 12-24mm vs. Russian MC Zenitar 16mm Fisheye
The 500mm Sigma is truly a superb lens, I have had two of them in the past three or four years, each purchased for a special task then sold on eBay. It is a fact of optical science that any prime lens will always be sharper than a zoom. This is a function of the optical design. Modern zooms are of course better than in the past but none equals the resolution of a prime lens. This is a point that the average photographer would probably have fits over but most are not optical engineers and function on anecdotal information as opposed to hard facts.
Here are some of those facts:
You cannot test a lens on a camera for resolution (sharpness) because the camera introduces its own variables. Testing can only be done on an optical bench using calibrated test charts. This is not so formidable as it sounds, a simple version which is quite adequate can be made with a standard telescope or microscope eyepiece mounted so as to make the lens into a tele viewer. Then you view the "aerial" image at the focal planeand count the lines of resolution.
When you do this all primes are sharper than any zoom at its maximum zoom position?Here is the reason:
All lenses, from telescopes to primes to zooms have a primary image creating element. This is nominally the front two or three pieces of glass.A telescope uses just this lens with the film or eyepiece being placed at the prime focus. This produces very long lenses as a 1000mm lens would have a tube 1000mm long.
A telephoto lens uses a prime lens which is about half the focal length of the finished product which makes the tube half as long. In order to bring it to a focus a negative amplifier is placed at the exit pupil which extract just the central area of the image thus giving the effect of a longer focal length. You can easily see this by looking at the rear element of any telelens, the exit lens will be negative (concave). What this does is to in effect magnify the image from the prime (front) elements to the size needed but at the same time it does not increase detail, just size. So a telephoto lens when compared to a telescope lens is a compromise.
All zoom lenses go a step further. They have the basic lens setup as the telephoto lens but they introduce another negative amplifier between the prime lens and the exit lens. This amplifier is moveable thus giving varied amplification. But this additional amplification simply makes bigger or smaller the image created by the prime elements, in no way does it increase detail or resolution. It simply magnifies what is there. It is almost the same thing as digital magnification in the consumer cameras.
This explanation is very basic and there are variations made by different designers but none escape the fact that all telephoto lenses, including zooms are a compromise and depend on magnification of the image produced by the prime elements.
Now I hope you are not asleep and that this technical explanation makes sense.
If you are beginner of photography, please use these links to start.
http://www.dpreview.com/learn/glossary/
http://www.cliffshade.com/dpfwiw/
Canon Digital EOS Learning Center - http://www.photoworkshop.com/canon/
Flash Photography with Canon EOS Cameras - http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/
Must do research on www.google.com or www.photographyreview.com for the feedback and www.dpreview.com for side by side comparison.
Review the dealer's feedback and price from www.bizrate.com or www.NextTag.com or www.streetprices.com or www.pricegrabber.com or www.resellers.com or www.resellerratings.com buy used/new one from www.ebay.com
Houston Art Supply www.texasart.com
Crystal Clear Bags - http://www.clearbags.com/
1. COSTCO - http://www.costcophotocenter.com/
Crap book size prints, enlargements, collage prints and posters
size 1-99 each 100-499 each 500+ each 8x8 scrapbook
size prints$1.49 $1.29 $0.99 8x10 collage prints $1.49 $1.29 $0.99 8x12 collage prints $1.49 $1.29 $0.99 11x14 enlargements $2.99 $2.49 $1.99 12x12 scrapbook
size prints$2.99 $2.49 $1.99 12x18 enlargements $2.99 $2.49 $1.99 11x14 collage prints $2.99 $2.49 $1.99 12x18 collage prints $2.99 $2.49 $1.99 16x20 posters $5.99 $5.49 $4.99 20x30 posters $8.99 $8.49 $7.99 16x20 collage prints $5.99 $5.49 $4.99 20x30 collage prints $8.99 $8.49 $7.99
2. ASAP - http://www.asapproimaging.com/
Print order at Houston Office 713-785-4443, @ ftp://75.148.211.100/
Print order at Sugar land Office 281-980-6071, @ ftp://75.148.211.133/
Pricing: http://asapproimaging.com/files/Pricing.pdf
Order/123
Photo Seminars
2005 Outdoor & Digital Photo Seminar-Dallas information
http://www.pcphotomag.com/content/articles/misc/photo_seminars2005/
Photo Contests
UK Nature Photo Contest http://internt.nhm.ac.uk/jdsml/wildwin/2004/info_2005.html
If you want get detail information about China photographing spots, please go to http://www.ctps.cn/ for detail!
http://image.xitek.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?forumid=13.
National Parks Reference: http://www.terragalleria.com/
Himalayas: http://www.myhimalayas.com/